Luxury supply-chain probe widens as Italian police search fashion offices

Italian police have widened a labour exploitation probe to include some of Milan's most prominent fashion houses, according to Retail Gazette. Authorities recently searched Chanel's offices as prosecutors ordered nine brands—including Moncler, Brunello Cucinelli, Bulgari, Jacob Cohen and Etro—to provide documents on corporate governance and labour practices. The investigation marks an escalation in scrutiny of the sector that has long marketed itself on quality and ethical production.

The probe undermines the "Made in Italy" supply chain's reputation for superior standards and ethical practice, according to Vogue Business. None of the brands have been placed under court administration or directly accused of wrongdoing, but prosecutors have requested documentation that suggests systematic investigation into wage and working conditions across the sector. The inquiry challenges the assumption that labour exploitation was unique to fast fashion, extending the spotlight to luxury producers that command premium prices partly on claims of responsible manufacturing.